Writer’s Dust

I write sitting in lotus pose on my couch; I realize this cannot be good for my back, but refuse to begin breaking the habit by moving to the table. The MacBook fits so nicely, front edge against my pelvis, side edges nestling into my thighs. Within reach is my coffee table, the earthy clay cup with steam still rising, the pen, the pad.

Returning last week from Burma, I almost wept at the cleanliness of my home, the worn but shiny bamboo floors, the orderly kitchen, the pleasant welcome of fabric and wood and high ceilings.  Lawrence had come in the day before with two bouquets of flowers, had wiped a bit of dust off the furniture with my sandalwood spray polish, opened the bay-facing windows just a hair.  Pure gratitude and a feeling of soft safety bathed my travel-worn mind.

Those flowers, sunflowers, and something blue, have since bit their own dust, but I’ve replaced them with yellow daffodils, slid without ceremony or attention to symmetry into a funky yellow vase I’d bought at a yard sale. A gift to myself, the flowers.  I can just glance over the rim of the laptop and admire their burst of color, vibrant. Wanting to live. Their petals fold and dance into one another, each individual flower like a family of nestling parts, as though protecting something sacred inside. The cacophony of leaves pointing to heaven, to hell, and off to the east and west. Likely there are too many stems in their narrow glass home, but I’ve never been much of one for keeping things alive.

The truth is, I will never let this spot on the coffee table go flowerless again. As I inhale and let myself really see them, for more than their quick infusion or color and life, I cannot exhale without thinking of their opposite and that which I can’t seem to shake. At the refugee camps in northern Thailand, there are no vases, for there are no flowers to put in them, there are no coffee tables to rest the vase on, there are no wood polishes or windows to open, no bay to turn the face toward for soft salty air. There are no couches to sit on, no cushions to soften the blow to the lumbar spine. There is, however dust. The kind you can hear when you bring your back teeth together by accident. Dust that cakes in the eyes of infants and the throats of old coughing women as they bend crouch over a pot to make their American guest soup. Dust that ends up in the soup made from water and tree bark and mushrooms grown in chicken shit. Dust Soup. Soup which really must be eaten, it has taken such effort to make.

Lets just pick one, Umpiem Camp. I wake up there at 5am, sick with fever, and rise from the floor to get some air. Outside, a teenage girl across the way is filling a bucket with water from the stream, hauling it back, and pouring it on the path between our huts to pack down the earth. Over, and over, and over. Beyond the roosters, I hear the sound I’ve heard for days, a three part human expelling of dusty phlegm. A long painful clearing of the throat, a hacking, and then spitting. The first time I heard this upon arriving, I couldn’t imagine how someone could be so rude. Within the first day I’d witnessed it aurally at least a dozen times. And eventually it becomes part of every other thing. Initially one wonders why, in this lush area just over the Burma border, there is no plant life. And then it becomes clear; every item of flora has been used for shelter or nutritional consumption. Imagine that for a minute. Look out your window, see all of it gone. All of it. Your grass, your garden? Its dust. Not even soft dirt. Dry, grainy, angry, hot, dry dust. Grit, lets call it. Colorless.

My daffodils block the view of my duffle bag, the one that still sits on the floor with pages of my writings, of interviews and underground documentaries on the atrocities going on this very day, even after the supposed positive turn of events in Burma. My daffodils open a little as the sun steaks though the eastern facing windows. They ask, “Why are you so afraid to put all this to paper?”

San Sei Thailand: The Yoga of Rooster and Brooms

Woke to the sound of a flute, which actually turned out to be a rooster. I’ve never heard such a graceful sound from such a typically alarming creature. For the first time in days the air is cold, and a mist rises from the river in front of me. Across in the distance, a broadcast from somewhere, it is either echoing or playing in many places within earshot. A sermon on this sunday morning, but very loud, layered also with less charming roosters, distant motorbikes, and now loud lanna music. I can only imagine how loud it is there, if it is so audible here, at least 1/2 mile away. I’m staying at Baan Nam Ping, or “house on Ping River”. In the rainy season when the floods often happen, the Ping and Khao rivers bring a lot of sand to the shores, and a huge sand dune is created. The town was only developed as a township in 1987, and selected name San Sai. San means Dune and Sai means Sand. Yesterday afternoon I was sitting on the dirty yellow poolside cushion at LogHome Boutique resort (ha!) when it hit me that to stay even another 45 minutes would drive me be around a bar world… I actually phoned Neil, whom I’d met a few days earlier, to see where he might be, as he loves to visit the small bars down in the backpacker area. This, at 2 pm, was not at all what I’d envisioned for my time in Chiang Mai. I narrowed down the hotels on the outskirts, those with a pool, those with high reviews, and found this little gem. Within a short time I’d negotiated 1/3 lower price on a deluxe bungalow and had everything packed up. Its really freeing to have so few items, to be able to move on a moments notice. My tuk-tuk driver had no idea where he was going, and it took twice as long to get here but the journey was beautiful, moving through riverside villages as the huge disk of sun set behind the mountains.  Sweeping is big part of life here, Still early morning, the staff now sweeps  walkways, the dining porch, around the pool. In the city or in a rural oasis, the soft sound of a straw broom can always be located; shop-keepers, monks, maids, municipal workers. It’s got to be a nice form of work, and aligns nicely with the Buddhist culture. I’m a bit jealous and tempted to switch places with the small sweet woman whom I hear nearby, and have her watch something on my iPad, put her feet up on the cushion, pour herself some coffee. 

Koh Mak Thailand: The Yoga of Dog Days

 

Flying fish glide across the cove’s surface like bikes popping wheelies. To this point, their graceful movement has been the peak of activity on this lazy late afternoon.  Against a placid canvas of color and texture,  the lost sun somewhere behind me throws unexpected light through a thick cloud-cover. It’s glow feeds a close patch of water and above that, as the eye scanning scenery goes, a dark horizon line supports faraway islands traced in grays and charcoal blues. 
 
The rains come and go, the guests come and go. There is a couple from Vancouver, Mark and June, who have been here for several weeks with three more ahead of them. They’ve become a constant while the others move in and out like the weather.  Backpacks and wheeled luggage arrive near the coffee bar in the morning, and disappear attached to their owners without ceremony or sound. I have a hard time even writing the name of this joint, it sounds so tacky. Maybe its like Seattle, boasting of constant rains to keep the influx away. CoCo Cape Resort may want to keep its potentially overwhelming clientele to a minimum. 
 
Behind me is a worn path, running parallel to the coastline, which takes guests from one end of the property to the other. On this evening the scene is a bit surreal. Priscilla, Queen of the Sand Desert, has been lifted by two small Thai waitresses, who struggle to carry her swollen and nearly lifeless body across the area and accidentally drop her near a palm tree. Presumably she was in the dining area, upsetting the guests with her uneven gasps for air and absurdly swollen udder. Her body hits the ground with a thud, like a sack of wheat, and doesn’t move. Hesitantly I go to her side and lay my hand on her head, her eyes at half mast but holding my own. I really haven’t wanted to get too involved. There is no rhythm to her breathing and her small skull under my hand shakes with either fear or effort. I want to stay with her, but know there’s nothing I can do. Returning to the table to finish my fish, there is a yelping behind me and the other local dog, with one recently gnawed off leg, hobbles down the path, not yet used to the lack of symmetry. She topples one way and the other, embarrassed, skinny, and afraid, biting at fleas and looking around for affection or food. I am told she is Priscilla’s daughter, and that she is likely the one to have inflicted the wound. I guess my old girl is no angel. 
 
Priscilla is only 7 years old, and has carried a litter every year of her life. Dogs on Koh Mak, or any remote Thai island, aren’t treated with much compassion, and are basically only fed when tourists are around. As a result they are often overweight for the first half of the calendar year, and then famished the other. The heat of the dry season and the storms of the rainy season keep them from getting much physical activity, and they are not vaccinated, or used to any kinds of medicines. They are tough though, and seem to be able to survive in circumstances where western dogs would hit an expiration point. Priscilla’s temperature was 107 for two days immediately after her litter was born, and that she has survived that is impressive. A dogs normal temperature is between 101-103. 
 
Though there is no vet on the island, there is a beautiful British expat nurse who has been showing up to care for P. She and her husband built a home here when land was cheap, but also spend some time back home on the eastern coast of England, in Aldeburgh where the classical composer Benjamin Britton created the majority of his works.  She told this morning of her very good friend who lives here and had three dogs. One of them, who was not really one to wander off, was recently missing, so he drove on his vespa from place to place looking for him in the late afternoon. He did eventually find him: on a spit over a fire, serving as dinner for a group of Cambodian migrant workers who were on the island to build the road.